Stop heating the outside of your house.

Traditional vented crawlspaces let fiberglass insulation fail to block air infiltration, leaving cold floors in winter and humid, sweating ductwork in summer. A sealed and conditioned crawlspace closes off outside vents entirely and brings the space inside the home's thermal envelope instead.

The process:

1. Lay a 15-mil vapor barrier across the floor, running 6–12 inches up the walls.
2. Secure the barrier to the walls with concrete nails.
3. Apply open-cell foam up to the band board (R-10), leaving a 2-inch gap at the floor for termite inspection.
4. Tape all overlaps and piers.
5. Install a baffled air register supplying 50 cfm of conditioned air per 1,000 sq ft.

The result: no air infiltration, less moisture, stable humidity, and an HVAC system that isn't fighting a swing-temperature crawlspace all year.

The EPA has identified indoor air pollution as one of the top five environmental health risks, costing over $1 billion a year in direct healthcare costs — mostly from improper ventilation and poor building practices. Open-cell spray foam is a non-toxic, environmentally safe way to air-seal a home so dust, allergens, and pollutants stay outside.

Sealing the envelope only works if the HVAC system is sized to match — bigger isn't better. Following ACCA's Manual J/S/D/T guidelines for proper sizing keeps run cycles long enough to control both temperature and humidity, which is what actually defines comfort (a principle documented back to 1923). Undersized ventilation and moisture control are also the two biggest drivers of Sick Building Syndrome, so proper sealing, sizing, and moisture management go hand in hand.

R-value gets treated as the single measure of an insulation's quality, but it only quantifies resistance to conductive heat flow — it says nothing about air infiltration or moisture performance, which is where most real-world energy loss actually happens. Fiberglass posts strong lab R-values but underperforms badly once wind or moisture gets involved, conditions the lab test doesn't account for.

Spray-in-place polyurethane is the exception: because it expands to seal the cavity completely, it fights air infiltration directly instead of just resisting conduction, often outperforming higher-R fiber insulation in real buildings. The takeaway isn't that R-value is meaningless — it's that air-sealing and moisture resistance deserve equal weight in the comparison.

Open-cell spray foam is a two-component polyurethane system made of millions of tiny cells that fill and seal draft-prone spots — baseboards, window and door surrounds, outlet and pipe penetrations — that framing lumber alone leaves gapped. Installed by Allied Spray Foams under the InSEAL-Right quality program, it holds a stable R-value over time and withstands wind loads up to 160 mph as an air barrier.

In practice that translates to up to 50% lower heating/cooling costs, up to 40% smaller HVAC tonnage without losing comfort, a draft-free wall assembly, quieter rooms from sound absorption, less household dust, and even temperatures room to room.

Mold can't be eliminated entirely indoors — the real lever is moisture control. Keep indoor humidity between 30–60%, vent bathrooms and laundry rooms directly outside, run exhaust fans during cooking and cleaning, and dry any wet materials within 24–48 hours to keep mold from taking hold in the first place.

Open-cell spray foam helps directly here: its low air permeability limits the condensation on cold surfaces (windows, pipes, exterior walls) that mold needs to get started, combining insulation and moisture control in a single material.

Upfront, yes. But it air-seals the building so effectively that homeowners often downsize HVAC equipment and cut other material and labor costs. Most homes see the investment pay for itself in energy savings within about three years.

Yes — there's no special overheating risk, provided correctly rated wires are used, the same precaution taken with any insulation type.

No. It requires installation by an Approved Applicator using specialized equipment, to properly handle the chemistry involved and guarantee the seal.

No. Open-cell foam has no nutritional value for mold or mildew, and its air-sealing properties prevent the moisture buildup that typically causes it.

No — it's chemically and physically stable, holding its shape and performance for the life of the building.

It isn't typically used on existing finished walls, but it works well in retrofits for attics and crawl spaces, where most existing-home energy loss happens.

After windows, doors, and roofing are complete and electrical/plumbing inspections have passed — and before drywall goes up.

It's free of Urea Formaldehyde, CFCs, and HCFCs, and adheres well to wood, metal studs, and cement board alike — though windows and doors should be protected from over-spray during application.